My First-Timer's List, Part Deux

Paris Museum Pass—if you plan to visit a lot of museums, it may be worth blocking them all together over a few days and purchasing a museum pass (buy it at your first venue, or at an information desk at the airport when you arrive). You can save a little money, and time waiting in ticket lines (you will still have to line up for security, tho).  All the museums with an * by their name in my Part 1 list are covered on the museum pass, and there are many other possibilities included on the pass that are listed on their website. There are other visitor passes (i.e. Paris Pass) that may sound appealing at first, but they are generally just an overpriced set of passes you can buy individually for a lot less.

Hop-On Hop-Off (HOHO) Bus—If you’re in Paris only a short time, or would like a good orientation of the city at the beginning of a longer trip, riding one of the HOHO buses is a good bet.  You’ll see most of the major sights in the city, you can jump off the bus to explore at any of the stops along the route, and then catch one of the next buses to continue your tour.  Buy your ticket directly from the driver when you board (or you can purchase online, but unused tickets are non-refundable).  Two good options are Big Bus and L’OpenTour.
Foxity has a similar tour that lasts about 2 hours, with no stopping along the way. This can be a better option if you're pressed for time and traffic is congested, slowing down the efficiency of the HOHO buses.  

Metro—The fastest (and cheapest) way around the city is by metro using a Navigo Découverte pass, which is good for a week of travel -- Monday thru Sunday -- on the metro, bus and RER within Paris (zones 1-5, includes CDG & Versailles). Costs 22.80€ for the current week of travel, plus 5€ one-time fee for the smart card and plastic holder (once you have it, you can reuse it for years). Buy the kit at a metro “Information” window, then use the machine to load it for a week (you can select “English” on the machine). Bring a small head shot of yourself for the pass. More info here.  

If you think you’ll be doing more walking than metro-ing, or aren’t going to be in Paris long enough to justify a weekly pass, buy a carnet of tickets (pack of 10) for 14.90€ (tickets are 1.80€ each if purchased individually).  Remember you need one ticket each time you enter the metro, so 2 for a round trip. Always save your ticket until you exit!  Green-jacketed RATP police do monitor for turnstile jumpers, so you want to be able to prove you paid to enter if you are stopped.  Here’s a video that shows how to navigate the metro—it’s easy, and the only French word you need to know is “sortie” (exit). This detailed article has step by step photos. If you have a smartphone, download the RATP app and you’ll never be lost (for long!).  Another good map app to download before you go is an offline map app called “HERE Maps”. It uses GPS to show where you are on the map, without gobbling up data.

Bus—The city bus uses the same ticket as the metro (also accepts your Navigo pass!) and has an extensive route system.  If you have any mobility issues -- even just achy feet or knees -- traveling by bus is much kinder to the body because you don’t have all the stairs to climb that one encounters in the metro.  Another bonus is you can see where you’re going, and get a mini tour of the city while riding!  Enter the bus thru the front door, validate your ticket or pass, and move to the rear, trying not to block other passengers getting on or off.  Exit thru the rear door.  There are seats clearly marked for elderly and handicapped passengers, and a space in the middle of the bus for strollers and wheelchairs, so use them if it applies to you.  Otherwise, be considerate of anyone entering the bus who may need the space if you’re occupying it.  Bus niceties include greeting the driver with a “bonjour” as you enter, and offering your seat to older passengers or young moms with children.  If you’re in Paris for more than just a few days and plan to use the bus, consider investing in a route guide — “L‘Indispensable Paris Bus 109 lignes” is a good one (about 7€ at newsstands).     

Money—The cheapest and easiest way to get euros is to use your debit card -- not a credit card -- to withdraw cash from an ATM in Paris.  ATM’s are plentiful, and most have an option to complete your transaction in English.  Look for banks HSBC, PNB Paribas, LCL, Societé Générale, BRED, and La Poste (yes, the post office!).  You’ll get a better exchange rate than if you buy from a bank in the States, or use any kind of currency exchange service at the airport or at kiosks in Paris.  Compare the daily bank rate at XE.com (which is within tenths of a percent to what you get at an ATM), to what currency exchange services or your home bank offers, and do the math.  Ask your bank how much they charge for credit/debit card foreign purchases and compare—it’s usually from 1% - 3%.  It is good to arrive with a small amount of euro cash tho, at least enough for transportation to your lodgings.  You’ll probably want to use the cheapest debit/credit card you have for most purchases, and just carry a small amount of euro cash for incidentals (many shops have a 15€ minimum purchase for card purchases, so you do want to carry some cash).  If a store/hotel offers a choice to charge your card in Euros or US dollars, always pick Euros.  Paying in US dollars thru a foreign bank will cost you two currency conversion fees!   

Before you go:

• Notify your banks of your travel dates and what countries you will be visiting so they can attach a travel advisory to your account—otherwise they will likely freeze your card for suspected fraud.
• Make sure your passport is valid for at least 3 months after your return date. If not, you will be denied entry into France (most likely your airline will refuse boarding at your departure airport).  
• Photocopy (or take pics with your smart phone) your passport info page and front/back of all credit/debit cards you’re taking, and pack a copy to take with you.  In case you lose one, having the information handy makes it much easier to replace.
• If you plan to rent a car, it’s the law that you have an International Driver’s Permit.  You can get one inexpensively from AAA.  You do not want a car while staying in Paris, but you might want one if you plan to explore the countryside later. 
• Have your hotel/apartment address written on a card to carry with you—makes it easy to show a taxi driver or someone on the street if you get disoriented and need help getting home.

Dining-- Expect a sit-down meal to take longer than at home.  Just relax and enjoy it!  The French don’t rush their meals.  Dinner is normally at 8 or 9 pm, and many restaurants don’t even open until 7 or 7:30 pm.  If you can, it’s appreciated to make a dinner reservation ahead—you won’t get in many places without one.  Most people don’t realize how easy it is to mess up and have a “wasted” mediocre meal in Paris.  With just a little research, forethought and no extra $$, you can have wonderful meals.  Don’t fall into the first tourist restaurant next to Notre Dame (or wherever else you are)—they cater to one-time customers and probably aren’t doing much to earn repeat guests.  Walk a street or two off the beaten path and look for places that are busy during normal dining hours (lunch 12:30-2, for example), as the empty ones may be that way for a reason.   Tipping is not required (tax and service are already included in the price shown on the menu).  By law, restaurants must display their menu outside, so you can always take a look to make sure they offer something you want to eat before going in.  You can ask for “une carafe d’eau” (“dough”) for a pitcher of free tap water, so pricey bottled water isn’t necessary unless that’s what you want.  When you'd like to pay the check, you must ask for it (seriously, they rarely bring it unless you ask!).  Say “L’addition, s’il vous plait”, or politely wave your credit card when you catch your server’s eye, and he will bring the bill.  Here is a simple menu translator you can print to carry with you.

A few restaurant recommendations:

• Le Reminet--3 rue des Grands-Degres, 75005 (phone 01 44 07 04 24) Open 7 days a week.  Book on TheFork.com for a 40% discount (if booking with the discount, each person must order at least 2 courses, and the discount does not include drinks). 
• Josephine Chez Dumonet—117 rue Cherche Midi, 75006 (phone 01 45 48 52 40) closed Saturday & Sunday.  Really yummy traditional dishes in an old-style bistrot setting.  You can order half portions of some dishes (look for “demi” on the menu).  We’ve seen Gerard Depardieu here.
• La Régalade Saint-Honoré--106 rue Saint-Honoré, 75001 (phone 01 42 21 92 40) The 3 course prix fixe is 39€, or order a la carte. According to Paris food critic Alec Lebrano, “it should be on your short list”.  Reserve ahead!  Books up a month in advance for busy periods.
• Chez René—14 Bl. St. Germain, 75005 (phone 01 43 54 30 23) closed Sunday & Monday. They've been voted as having the best chocolate mousse in Paris.  Traditional French (great Pot a Feu, Coq au Vin, Confit de Canard, etc.). The plat du jour is 17€ and always a huge portion of something delicious. 
• Le Cuisine de Philippe--25 rue Servandoni, 75006 (phone 01 43 29 76 37) closed Sunday & Monday.  Traditional old restaurant. Starter and dessert soufflés are a specialty, with well-prepared traditional dishes rounding out the main course menu. Reservations a must.   

Quick bites—Boulangeries have wonderful sandwiches and quiches that make a tasty and filling meal while out and about.  Look for the “formula” or “menu” that includes a sandwich, pastry and drink for 7-8€.  Crepe stands are another good option for a meal on the go—order a “jambon/fromage” (ham and cheese) or a Nutella banana for dessert (3.50€, higher in touristy areas).  Falafel sandwiches (on a pita) are popular in Paris and are available all over.  L’As du Falafel in the Marais is a popular spot, but all the shops in that area are good, so don’t feel you have to wait in line. There’s been a proliferation of quick, ready-to-eat food stores in Paris recently, so keep an eye out for Monop’, Carrefour Express and the like—you can purchase pre-made salads, fruit, sandwiches, soups, etc. and they usually offer a self-serve microwave near the front of the store to heat things up.  

Shopping—French pharmacies are full of “exotic” things to bring home—inexpensive, everyday Parisian staples that you can savor and slather on long after your vacation is over. City Pharma--26 Rue du Four, 75006, offers a 30% discount on many products.  Open 9am-8pm, very busy!  Closed Sundays.  Check out Gwenyth Paltrow’s French pharmacy list for a few examples, and note prices on beauty.com to compare before you go.

Paris is, of course, famous for luxury brands.  A few good buys that won't break the bank: Chanel has several perfume scents that are sold only in Chanel boutiques, so are a bit unique in the US.  Longchamp "Le Pilage" totes are a good buy--80€ in Paris, compared to $120 or more in the States.  Diptique candles in the iconic glass jar have wonderful, long-lasting scents, some very unusual.  These are 40€ in Paris, or $60 online in the US.  Peugeot pepper grinders are top of the line and you can buy them in Paris for a bit less than at home. 

Fun inexpensive souvenirs:  “Silk” scarves can be found all over the city starting at 2€; fleur de sel; herbes de Provence; chocolate; Eiffel Tower keychains (great ornaments for your Christmas tree); a 6” Eiffel Tower replica makes a fun ring holder for your sink or nightstand; butter (freeze it inside a ziplock bag—makes the trip home just fine); French soap like Le Petit Marseillais; browse a grocery store (Carrefour, Franprix, Monoprix) for items unique to France—even something as typical as cookies, candy, or bouillon cubes (which come in so many more flavors than we get in the States, and aren’t as salty) can be a novelty at home; browse a Monoprix store (similar to Target) for everyday items you can use at home that will remind you of Paris—dish towels, stationary, sel et poivre shakers (salt & pepper), the possibilities are endless.  (Note:  Do check your customs laws when bringing home food products, but you shouldn't have any problem bringing the items mentioned into the US, with the possible exception of beef bouillon...chicken and pork are not a problem) 

Airport to Paris transportation—There are multiple ways to get into the city from CDG airport.  The easiest is taking a taxi, which has a set rate of 50€ to the right bank and 55€ to the left bank.  Follow the “Taxi” signs, and use only an official taxi from the official taxi rank--don’t accept a ride from a rogue driver who approaches you inside the airport.  Have your complete hotel or apartment address written on a slip of paper to hand to the driver.  The least expensive way into the city is to take the train, RER B (10.30€ each way).  Step by step directions and photos for taking the RER are here. 

A word about Beggars/Scam artists--Ignore the "deaf mute" kids wanting you to sign a petition—they are just creative beggars/pickpockets.  Ignore anyone who claims to have found a gold ring and asks if it’s yours.  Ignore anyone loitering in the metro or around tourist attractions asking if you speak English.  Ignore anyone wanting to tie a string bracelet on your arm.  The best way to deal with these people (some can be a little aggressive) is to just ignore them and walk on past.  Don’t even hesitate--say “non” in your best French accent and keep walking.  Pickpockets can be a problem in crowded tourist areas and the metro.  Stay alert when in crowds or when your 3 feet of personal space is intruded upon.  Keep your purse in front with your hand on it (and zippers zipped—your purse does have a zipper, right?!); wallets go in an upper jacket pocket or front pants pocket with your hand on it when you are in crowds.  Backpacks are best left at home so you’re not pegged a tourist right away (a cross-body bag is better).  If you insist on a backpack, do not keep valuables in it, and certainly not in an easily-accessible pocket.  Don’t lay your cell phone on the table while you’re eating, keep it secured—they are the most often stolen item. Use your street smarts so you’re not taken advantage of, but don’t worry unnecessarily.  In over 2 dozen trips, we’ve never been pickpocketed. 

Learn a few French words and use them—you will be rewarded!  The basics you will need are: hello (bonjour); goodbye (au revoir); thank you (merci); the check, please (l’addition, s'il vous plaît).  “Parlez vous anglais?” is a good one to use right after “bonjour”, if you have a question for someone.  Most everyone under 30-40 speaks English and will be happy for the chance to practice.  Be sure you greet ("bonjour") everyone you speak to before you ask for what you need.  Politeness is highly regarded in France, and the French are genuinely nice people -- but if you forget the niceties, that waiter or boulangerie clerk you’re speaking with might suddenly turn into the stereotypical rude French person we often hear about!  So remember your manners. 

Research before you go—Understanding cultural differences you’ll encounter before you go can make a world of difference. This understanding turns a brusque waiter into an example of a professional excelling at his job.  Parisian’s don’t share smiles with strangers on the street and rarely engage in chit chat on the metro.  It doesn’t mean they’re unfriendly; they are just reserved and are following their cultural norm.  They speak quietly and expect visitors to speak softly as well, so you might notice they become annoyed by boisterous tourists.  This doesn’t mean they don’t like you or your nationality, it’s the behavior they’re unaccustomed to.  

Love Locks--Contrary to what is promoted in the media, attaching a lock to a bridge is a recent destructive trend and not a romantic old tradition. Paris’ historic bridges can no longer withstand these gestures of “love” and are suffering from the weight of thousands of rusting locks.  Keys thrown into the river are polluting the waterway.  This vandalism is discouraged by the City of Paris, and educated tourists are finding other ways to commemorate their love.

    

Cell Phones--Phone calls home and international roaming are very expensive with most carriers—check with yours.  T-Mobile offers free international calling, and I think they’re the only exception.  AT&T has an international “Passport” plan for $60 a month, or a $10 a day plan. You’ll want to turn off your cellular data or switch to airplane mode while abroad to avoid huge fees if you haven't purchased a plan (then only turn on your cellular data when you are on wifi, and remember to turn it off when you're done!).  To circumvent these fees and inconvenience, you can have your phone unlocked before you go (or purchase a cheap unlocked phone), then purchase a local SIM card in Paris.  Orange offers a “Holiday” option that includes 2 hours of international calls, 1000 international texts, and 1G of data for 39.99€. There are many Orange store locations in Paris (check Google maps).  They will need to see your passport, and they will set it up for you in the store.  The only downside to this is you’ll have a temporary new phone number, so you’ll need to let your family or friends know what it is.  Lebara also has a pretty cheap SIM, but you have to set it up yourself online, and that’s sometimes problematic. 

Electrical gadgets--You’ll want a few plug adapters to charge your phone, camera, etc.  You can buy them on Amazon for $1 each—search “USA to Euro Plug Adapter”. Don’t bother with a converter; you only need adapters for your small appliances and chargers.  If you’re packing a curling iron, flat iron or hair dryer, be sure it is dual voltage (it should say something like “125/250v AC” on it, maybe molded into the plastic).  Don’t risk burning down your hotel or melting your hair by using a standard single voltage appliance in Europe.  You can buy dual voltage Conair curling/flat irons inexpensively at Target, Walmart, or online thru Amazon. 

Medical--For a life threatening issue, call 15 (from a local phone) for an ambulance.  Otherwise, your first line of defense is a pharmacist.  Pharmacies are identified easily by the green neon cross sign (+), and they are everywhere.  Pharmacists almost always speak English and are trained to diagnose and will sell you (inexpensively) medications that aren’t available over the counter in the States.  If they think you should see a doctor, they will suggest one nearby for you.  SOS Medecins is a 24 hour service of doctors who make housecalls.  Ask the dispatcher for an English-speaking doctor.  Phone 3624 (from a local phone) or 011 33 1 47 07 77 77 (if using a US cell phone); cash only (70€ weekday, 90€ nights & weekends).  They arrive within 90 minutes.   

And my #1 tip:  COMFORTABLE SHOES!  Make sure you can walk 10 miles a day in them before you leave home.  If that fails, Compeed blister bandages are excellent, and are available in most grocery stores and pharmacies.