The Paris Grocery Store

Maybe I'm a little wacky, but I love a trip to the grocery store when I'm in Paris almost as much as taking a scenic stroll along the Seine, visiting a museum, or admiring an iconic monument.  The shelves at Carrefour, Monoprix and Franprix are brimming with products that seem oh-so-exotic (even tho they are normal everyday items to the French), and I get a little thrill when I discover something new that I can make use of at home.  

The photo above shows just a few of the French things I have in my California kitchen at the moment, but it's a good place to start.  There are so many items that can easily be toted home in your carry-on for little gifts for your culinary-minded friends (or as practical souvenirs for yourself!), and are priced very attractively.  

The spice aisle is usually my first order of business on a grocery run.  Many dried herbs and spices are allowed thru Customs, but it's wise to check your country's most recent customs regulations before stocking up.  I like to bring home bottles of bouquet garni, and there are special varieties for meat or fish (viandes or poissons).  I love the convenience of dried, diced shallots -- they're so easy to add to a sauce for instant flavor, and I've never seen them at home.  And don't underestimate bouillon cubes!  In the US, we get beef, pork or chicken.  That's it.  In France they have these plus veal, bouquet garni, olive oil and herb, roasted chicken, stewed chicken, roast beef, etc. etc.  They seem less salty than what we get in the States, and I like that.  US Customs has asked me about beef bouillon before, so you'll want to avoid bringing anything beef (or veal) home.

Also in the spice aisle, you'll find Espelette pepper (piment d'Espelette), which is a unique spice cultivated in France and isn't easy to find at home.  Fleur de sel is harvested in Normandy, and you can find packets to being home for only a few euro.  I like to gift the pretty Le Saunier de Camargue brand with the cork lid (shown above).   A packet of herbs de Provence always finds its way into my suitcase -- a sprinkle of this blend on meat, eggs or vegetables instantly transports me back to Paris.
 
If you bake, bring home a tube of vanilla powder -- it's great to use in recipes when you want to add flavor but not more liquid.  It also gives you those glorious little specks that signal you've used a real vanilla bean (shhh, our secret!).  Another fun item to have is sucre en grains (pearl sugar) that's used in France to top chouquettes, brioche, etc., but is pretty atop cupcakes, too.

Farine de Sarrasin is buckwheat flour.  If you want to make authentic savory crepes (gallettes) when you get home, you'll need this, as it's another French basic that's hard to come by in the States.  I searched high and low for the miniature elbow pasta I've been served in one of our favorite Paris restaurants, so last trip I brought home a few packages of coquilettes.  My grandkids love them cooked into mac and cheese, but I like to make the pasta "risotto" that appears on the menu aside pork tenderloin at Terroir Parisien.                  

The candy aisle is another favorite diversion while I shop.  My grandkids love chocolate-covered marshmallow bears and unique shaped Haribo gummy candies (sunny side up eggs?!).  Chocolate bars are worth stocking up on, as there are so many unique flavors -- menthe frappée, crème brulée, raisin with hazelnut, raspberry...a really wide choice of both milk chocolate and dark chocolate flavors.  Here's a good recipe for an authentic cup of Parisian hot chocolate (substitute any flavor chocolate bar in place of the bittersweet chocolate).

If you're renting an apartment during your stay, you can go wild with foodie purchases and sample different products that won't make the trip home.  Yogurt is at the top of the list -- it's creamier and the flavors are more "true".  Search the Great Wall of Yogurt in any grocery store (you'll know what I mean when you see it!), and pick up some Le Laitrie by Nestle in glass jars, or Le Fermier that comes in blue ceramic pots, and you get a bonus:  you can pack a few of the pots to re-purpose at home! 

You won't want to overlook one of life's simple pleasures -- French butter!  Buy a baguette at your nearest boulangerie and slather that baby with some incredible Normandy butter.  The higher fat content and grass-fed beef makes it taste so...buttery!  My favorite is a common grocery store brand, "Grand Fermage aux Cristaux de Sel de Mer de Noirmoutier", that contains little flakes of sea salt that pop on your tongue.  There are many artisanal brands you can try -- like Bordier, which comes in salted and unsalted varieties, as well as with seaweed (not as weird as it sounds!), or piment d'Espelette (these artisanal butters can be found at cheese shops and in fine food stores, like Le Grand Epicerie at Le Bon Marché).  I routinely bring butter home from Paris (frozen in ziplock bags) packed in my carry-on between clothes, and it makes the 15 hour door-to-door trip just fine. 

Since you have a baguette back at the apartment, you'll want a tub of Rillets de Poulet Roti (a chunky roasted chicken spread that's delicious).  Perhaps a jar of mustard, too:  forté is strong (very!) and mi-forté is half strength.  And don't forget a jar of cornichons (tiny mustard-y pickles).  

Please don't let my list restrict your purchases!  This is just a tiny preview of the goodies that can be found in a typical French grocery store.  Let your nose and your curiosity be your guide and try some of the unique items you'll find as you explore your Paris neighborhood market.  Let me know in the comments below if there are other grocery store items you love to buy in France!    

My First-Timer's List, Part Deux

Paris Museum Pass—if you plan to visit a lot of museums, it may be worth blocking them all together over a few days and purchasing a museum pass (buy it at your first venue, or at an information desk at the airport when you arrive). You can save a little money, and time waiting in ticket lines (you will still have to line up for security, tho).  All the museums with an * by their name in my Part 1 list are covered on the museum pass, and there are many other possibilities included on the pass that are listed on their website. There are other visitor passes (i.e. Paris Pass) that may sound appealing at first, but they are generally just an overpriced set of passes you can buy individually for a lot less.

Hop-On Hop-Off (HOHO) Bus—If you’re in Paris only a short time, or would like a good orientation of the city at the beginning of a longer trip, riding one of the HOHO buses is a good bet.  You’ll see most of the major sights in the city, you can jump off the bus to explore at any of the stops along the route, and then catch one of the next buses to continue your tour.  Buy your ticket directly from the driver when you board (or you can purchase online, but unused tickets are non-refundable).  Two good options are Big Bus and L’OpenTour.
Foxity has a similar tour that lasts about 2 hours, with no stopping along the way. This can be a better option if you're pressed for time and traffic is congested, slowing down the efficiency of the HOHO buses.  

Metro—The fastest (and cheapest) way around the city is by metro using a Navigo Découverte pass, which is good for a week of travel -- Monday thru Sunday -- on the metro, bus and RER within Paris (zones 1-5, includes CDG & Versailles). Costs 22.80€ for the current week of travel, plus 5€ one-time fee for the smart card and plastic holder (once you have it, you can reuse it for years). Buy the kit at a metro “Information” window, then use the machine to load it for a week (you can select “English” on the machine). Bring a small head shot of yourself for the pass. More info here.  

If you think you’ll be doing more walking than metro-ing, or aren’t going to be in Paris long enough to justify a weekly pass, buy a carnet of tickets (pack of 10) for 14.90€ (tickets are 1.80€ each if purchased individually).  Remember you need one ticket each time you enter the metro, so 2 for a round trip. Always save your ticket until you exit!  Green-jacketed RATP police do monitor for turnstile jumpers, so you want to be able to prove you paid to enter if you are stopped.  Here’s a video that shows how to navigate the metro—it’s easy, and the only French word you need to know is “sortie” (exit). This detailed article has step by step photos. If you have a smartphone, download the RATP app and you’ll never be lost (for long!).  Another good map app to download before you go is an offline map app called “HERE Maps”. It uses GPS to show where you are on the map, without gobbling up data.

Bus—The city bus uses the same ticket as the metro (also accepts your Navigo pass!) and has an extensive route system.  If you have any mobility issues -- even just achy feet or knees -- traveling by bus is much kinder to the body because you don’t have all the stairs to climb that one encounters in the metro.  Another bonus is you can see where you’re going, and get a mini tour of the city while riding!  Enter the bus thru the front door, validate your ticket or pass, and move to the rear, trying not to block other passengers getting on or off.  Exit thru the rear door.  There are seats clearly marked for elderly and handicapped passengers, and a space in the middle of the bus for strollers and wheelchairs, so use them if it applies to you.  Otherwise, be considerate of anyone entering the bus who may need the space if you’re occupying it.  Bus niceties include greeting the driver with a “bonjour” as you enter, and offering your seat to older passengers or young moms with children.  If you’re in Paris for more than just a few days and plan to use the bus, consider investing in a route guide — “L‘Indispensable Paris Bus 109 lignes” is a good one (about 7€ at newsstands).     

Money—The cheapest and easiest way to get euros is to use your debit card -- not a credit card -- to withdraw cash from an ATM in Paris.  ATM’s are plentiful, and most have an option to complete your transaction in English.  Look for banks HSBC, PNB Paribas, LCL, Societé Générale, BRED, and La Poste (yes, the post office!).  You’ll get a better exchange rate than if you buy from a bank in the States, or use any kind of currency exchange service at the airport or at kiosks in Paris.  Compare the daily bank rate at XE.com (which is within tenths of a percent to what you get at an ATM), to what currency exchange services or your home bank offers, and do the math.  Ask your bank how much they charge for credit/debit card foreign purchases and compare—it’s usually from 1% - 3%.  It is good to arrive with a small amount of euro cash tho, at least enough for transportation to your lodgings.  You’ll probably want to use the cheapest debit/credit card you have for most purchases, and just carry a small amount of euro cash for incidentals (many shops have a 15€ minimum purchase for card purchases, so you do want to carry some cash).  If a store/hotel offers a choice to charge your card in Euros or US dollars, always pick Euros.  Paying in US dollars thru a foreign bank will cost you two currency conversion fees!   

Before you go:

• Notify your banks of your travel dates and what countries you will be visiting so they can attach a travel advisory to your account—otherwise they will likely freeze your card for suspected fraud.
• Make sure your passport is valid for at least 3 months after your return date. If not, you will be denied entry into France (most likely your airline will refuse boarding at your departure airport).  
• Photocopy (or take pics with your smart phone) your passport info page and front/back of all credit/debit cards you’re taking, and pack a copy to take with you.  In case you lose one, having the information handy makes it much easier to replace.
• If you plan to rent a car, it’s the law that you have an International Driver’s Permit.  You can get one inexpensively from AAA.  You do not want a car while staying in Paris, but you might want one if you plan to explore the countryside later. 
• Have your hotel/apartment address written on a card to carry with you—makes it easy to show a taxi driver or someone on the street if you get disoriented and need help getting home.

Dining-- Expect a sit-down meal to take longer than at home.  Just relax and enjoy it!  The French don’t rush their meals.  Dinner is normally at 8 or 9 pm, and many restaurants don’t even open until 7 or 7:30 pm.  If you can, it’s appreciated to make a dinner reservation ahead—you won’t get in many places without one.  Most people don’t realize how easy it is to mess up and have a “wasted” mediocre meal in Paris.  With just a little research, forethought and no extra $$, you can have wonderful meals.  Don’t fall into the first tourist restaurant next to Notre Dame (or wherever else you are)—they cater to one-time customers and probably aren’t doing much to earn repeat guests.  Walk a street or two off the beaten path and look for places that are busy during normal dining hours (lunch 12:30-2, for example), as the empty ones may be that way for a reason.   Tipping is not required (tax and service are already included in the price shown on the menu).  By law, restaurants must display their menu outside, so you can always take a look to make sure they offer something you want to eat before going in.  You can ask for “une carafe d’eau” (“dough”) for a pitcher of free tap water, so pricey bottled water isn’t necessary unless that’s what you want.  When you'd like to pay the check, you must ask for it (seriously, they rarely bring it unless you ask!).  Say “L’addition, s’il vous plait”, or politely wave your credit card when you catch your server’s eye, and he will bring the bill.  Here is a simple menu translator you can print to carry with you.

A few restaurant recommendations:

• Le Reminet--3 rue des Grands-Degres, 75005 (phone 01 44 07 04 24) Open 7 days a week.  Book on TheFork.com for a 40% discount (if booking with the discount, each person must order at least 2 courses, and the discount does not include drinks). 
• Josephine Chez Dumonet—117 rue Cherche Midi, 75006 (phone 01 45 48 52 40) closed Saturday & Sunday.  Really yummy traditional dishes in an old-style bistrot setting.  You can order half portions of some dishes (look for “demi” on the menu).  We’ve seen Gerard Depardieu here.
• La Régalade Saint-Honoré--106 rue Saint-Honoré, 75001 (phone 01 42 21 92 40) The 3 course prix fixe is 39€, or order a la carte. According to Paris food critic Alec Lebrano, “it should be on your short list”.  Reserve ahead!  Books up a month in advance for busy periods.
• Chez René—14 Bl. St. Germain, 75005 (phone 01 43 54 30 23) closed Sunday & Monday. They've been voted as having the best chocolate mousse in Paris.  Traditional French (great Pot a Feu, Coq au Vin, Confit de Canard, etc.). The plat du jour is 17€ and always a huge portion of something delicious. 
• Le Cuisine de Philippe--25 rue Servandoni, 75006 (phone 01 43 29 76 37) closed Sunday & Monday.  Traditional old restaurant. Starter and dessert soufflés are a specialty, with well-prepared traditional dishes rounding out the main course menu. Reservations a must.   

Quick bites—Boulangeries have wonderful sandwiches and quiches that make a tasty and filling meal while out and about.  Look for the “formula” or “menu” that includes a sandwich, pastry and drink for 7-8€.  Crepe stands are another good option for a meal on the go—order a “jambon/fromage” (ham and cheese) or a Nutella banana for dessert (3.50€, higher in touristy areas).  Falafel sandwiches (on a pita) are popular in Paris and are available all over.  L’As du Falafel in the Marais is a popular spot, but all the shops in that area are good, so don’t feel you have to wait in line. There’s been a proliferation of quick, ready-to-eat food stores in Paris recently, so keep an eye out for Monop’, Carrefour Express and the like—you can purchase pre-made salads, fruit, sandwiches, soups, etc. and they usually offer a self-serve microwave near the front of the store to heat things up.  

Shopping—French pharmacies are full of “exotic” things to bring home—inexpensive, everyday Parisian staples that you can savor and slather on long after your vacation is over. City Pharma--26 Rue du Four, 75006, offers a 30% discount on many products.  Open 9am-8pm, very busy!  Closed Sundays.  Check out Gwenyth Paltrow’s French pharmacy list for a few examples, and note prices on beauty.com to compare before you go.

Paris is, of course, famous for luxury brands.  A few good buys that won't break the bank: Chanel has several perfume scents that are sold only in Chanel boutiques, so are a bit unique in the US.  Longchamp "Le Pilage" totes are a good buy--80€ in Paris, compared to $120 or more in the States.  Diptique candles in the iconic glass jar have wonderful, long-lasting scents, some very unusual.  These are 40€ in Paris, or $60 online in the US.  Peugeot pepper grinders are top of the line and you can buy them in Paris for a bit less than at home. 

Fun inexpensive souvenirs:  “Silk” scarves can be found all over the city starting at 2€; fleur de sel; herbes de Provence; chocolate; Eiffel Tower keychains (great ornaments for your Christmas tree); a 6” Eiffel Tower replica makes a fun ring holder for your sink or nightstand; butter (freeze it inside a ziplock bag—makes the trip home just fine); French soap like Le Petit Marseillais; browse a grocery store (Carrefour, Franprix, Monoprix) for items unique to France—even something as typical as cookies, candy, or bouillon cubes (which come in so many more flavors than we get in the States, and aren’t as salty) can be a novelty at home; browse a Monoprix store (similar to Target) for everyday items you can use at home that will remind you of Paris—dish towels, stationary, sel et poivre shakers (salt & pepper), the possibilities are endless.  (Note:  Do check your customs laws when bringing home food products, but you shouldn't have any problem bringing the items mentioned into the US, with the possible exception of beef bouillon...chicken and pork are not a problem) 

Airport to Paris transportation—There are multiple ways to get into the city from CDG airport.  The easiest is taking a taxi, which has a set rate of 50€ to the right bank and 55€ to the left bank.  Follow the “Taxi” signs, and use only an official taxi from the official taxi rank--don’t accept a ride from a rogue driver who approaches you inside the airport.  Have your complete hotel or apartment address written on a slip of paper to hand to the driver.  The least expensive way into the city is to take the train, RER B (10.30€ each way).  Step by step directions and photos for taking the RER are here. 

A word about Beggars/Scam artists--Ignore the "deaf mute" kids wanting you to sign a petition—they are just creative beggars/pickpockets.  Ignore anyone who claims to have found a gold ring and asks if it’s yours.  Ignore anyone loitering in the metro or around tourist attractions asking if you speak English.  Ignore anyone wanting to tie a string bracelet on your arm.  The best way to deal with these people (some can be a little aggressive) is to just ignore them and walk on past.  Don’t even hesitate--say “non” in your best French accent and keep walking.  Pickpockets can be a problem in crowded tourist areas and the metro.  Stay alert when in crowds or when your 3 feet of personal space is intruded upon.  Keep your purse in front with your hand on it (and zippers zipped—your purse does have a zipper, right?!); wallets go in an upper jacket pocket or front pants pocket with your hand on it when you are in crowds.  Backpacks are best left at home so you’re not pegged a tourist right away (a cross-body bag is better).  If you insist on a backpack, do not keep valuables in it, and certainly not in an easily-accessible pocket.  Don’t lay your cell phone on the table while you’re eating, keep it secured—they are the most often stolen item. Use your street smarts so you’re not taken advantage of, but don’t worry unnecessarily.  In over 2 dozen trips, we’ve never been pickpocketed. 

Learn a few French words and use them—you will be rewarded!  The basics you will need are: hello (bonjour); goodbye (au revoir); thank you (merci); the check, please (l’addition, s'il vous plaît).  “Parlez vous anglais?” is a good one to use right after “bonjour”, if you have a question for someone.  Most everyone under 30-40 speaks English and will be happy for the chance to practice.  Be sure you greet ("bonjour") everyone you speak to before you ask for what you need.  Politeness is highly regarded in France, and the French are genuinely nice people -- but if you forget the niceties, that waiter or boulangerie clerk you’re speaking with might suddenly turn into the stereotypical rude French person we often hear about!  So remember your manners. 

Research before you go—Understanding cultural differences you’ll encounter before you go can make a world of difference. This understanding turns a brusque waiter into an example of a professional excelling at his job.  Parisian’s don’t share smiles with strangers on the street and rarely engage in chit chat on the metro.  It doesn’t mean they’re unfriendly; they are just reserved and are following their cultural norm.  They speak quietly and expect visitors to speak softly as well, so you might notice they become annoyed by boisterous tourists.  This doesn’t mean they don’t like you or your nationality, it’s the behavior they’re unaccustomed to.  

Love Locks--Contrary to what is promoted in the media, attaching a lock to a bridge is a recent destructive trend and not a romantic old tradition. Paris’ historic bridges can no longer withstand these gestures of “love” and are suffering from the weight of thousands of rusting locks.  Keys thrown into the river are polluting the waterway.  This vandalism is discouraged by the City of Paris, and educated tourists are finding other ways to commemorate their love.

    

Cell Phones--Phone calls home and international roaming are very expensive with most carriers—check with yours.  T-Mobile offers free international calling, and I think they’re the only exception.  AT&T has an international “Passport” plan for $60 a month, or a $10 a day plan. You’ll want to turn off your cellular data or switch to airplane mode while abroad to avoid huge fees if you haven't purchased a plan (then only turn on your cellular data when you are on wifi, and remember to turn it off when you're done!).  To circumvent these fees and inconvenience, you can have your phone unlocked before you go (or purchase a cheap unlocked phone), then purchase a local SIM card in Paris.  Orange offers a “Holiday” option that includes 2 hours of international calls, 1000 international texts, and 1G of data for 39.99€. There are many Orange store locations in Paris (check Google maps).  They will need to see your passport, and they will set it up for you in the store.  The only downside to this is you’ll have a temporary new phone number, so you’ll need to let your family or friends know what it is.  Lebara also has a pretty cheap SIM, but you have to set it up yourself online, and that’s sometimes problematic. 

Electrical gadgets--You’ll want a few plug adapters to charge your phone, camera, etc.  You can buy them on Amazon for $1 each—search “USA to Euro Plug Adapter”. Don’t bother with a converter; you only need adapters for your small appliances and chargers.  If you’re packing a curling iron, flat iron or hair dryer, be sure it is dual voltage (it should say something like “125/250v AC” on it, maybe molded into the plastic).  Don’t risk burning down your hotel or melting your hair by using a standard single voltage appliance in Europe.  You can buy dual voltage Conair curling/flat irons inexpensively at Target, Walmart, or online thru Amazon. 

Medical--For a life threatening issue, call 15 (from a local phone) for an ambulance.  Otherwise, your first line of defense is a pharmacist.  Pharmacies are identified easily by the green neon cross sign (+), and they are everywhere.  Pharmacists almost always speak English and are trained to diagnose and will sell you (inexpensively) medications that aren’t available over the counter in the States.  If they think you should see a doctor, they will suggest one nearby for you.  SOS Medecins is a 24 hour service of doctors who make housecalls.  Ask the dispatcher for an English-speaking doctor.  Phone 3624 (from a local phone) or 011 33 1 47 07 77 77 (if using a US cell phone); cash only (70€ weekday, 90€ nights & weekends).  They arrive within 90 minutes.   

And my #1 tip:  COMFORTABLE SHOES!  Make sure you can walk 10 miles a day in them before you leave home.  If that fails, Compeed blister bandages are excellent, and are available in most grocery stores and pharmacies.

How To Skip the Line at the Eiffel Tower

The #1 thing on most people's list to see when they visit Paris is undoubtedly the Eiffel Tower.  And why not?  It's likeness is recognized around the world, replicated in Las Vegas and other cities, and anything boasting it's image -- home decor, clothing, accessories, you name it -- is quickly snapped up in stores.  No doubt, the world has a love affair with the Iron Lady and many dream of seeing her in person.   

As I've said before, it's fun to catch your first glimpse of the ET from across the river at Tracadero.  That's where so many of it's iconic images have been snapped, and you'll get a picture perfect view from there.  Metro lines 6 and 9 will both get you to Tracadero.

After taking your own photos, make you way down the stairs behind either the Musée de l'Homme on the right (Museum of Man), or the Cité de l'Architecture et du Patrimonie on the left (Architectural Heritage Museum).  There has been some reconstruction work happening the past year or so on the esplanade, so one side or the other may be blocked.  Just use the other side.   And there's no need to freak out that you'll have scaffolding in your photos...just move closer to the railing and the mess won't be in your frame.

On your way to the tower, you'll pass the impressive Fontaine du Tracadero.  If your visit is in a warm weather month before it's emptied for the winter, you may catch the fountains' water cannons blast their watery ammunition in great cascades overhead for a few minutes at the top of the hour.  Maybe.  It seems the schedule is in flux.  But keep it on your radar while you're in the area and you may get lucky.  There's a great view of the fountain once you've made your way up the Tower.  A little-known detour on your way thru the park is the Cineaqua de Paris, an underground aquarium.  It's assuredly not a "must-see", but if you're looking for something to do in the rain, it's a great crowd-free option.  

On to the promised skip-the-line secrets:

•  Buy a timed entry ticket online.  Okay, not a huge secret, but there are some ways to up your chances of scoring one of these babies.  Currently, you can purchase them on the official Eiffel Tower website starting 60 days ahead of your date.  They do sell out, so book them as soon as you can once they go on sale.  If summit tickets are sold out, consider purchasing timed lift tickets to the 2nd floor instead.  You can also now purchase timed tickets online to climb the stairs to the 2nd level.  If, despite your best efforts, you aren't successful purchasing tickets ahead, don't despair!  Keep checking the website as your trip gets closer, because sometimes a few tickets are randomly released nearer to the date.  The tickets are non-refundable and non-changeable, so be sure you know what days you can go and arrange everything else around your ticket time.  With a skip-the-line ticket, you usually report to the East pillar of the tower (watch for signs and lines of people, they do change things up from time to time).  The long line of unfortunate folks are waiting to buy tickets -- that is not your line!  You will see a nearby entrance designated for timed tickets.  Show up 20-30 minutes ahead of your time slot (this allows time to clear the security screening at the perimeter before you're allowed under the tower).  Don't be more than 15 minutes late, as they may not honor your ticket.
  
• Buy a "Behind the Scenes" tour. "Behind the Scenes" tours start at 29€ (depending on how far ahead you buy), and include a tour of the workings under the Champ de Mars and finishes up on the 2nd stage. 
• Buy a timed ticket from a re-seller.   These inflated tickets from a re-seller start at 45€ for a ticket to the 2nd stage, or 59€ to the top. 
• Dine on the Eiffel Tower.  Reserve a spendy but très romantique lunch or dinner at Le Jules Verne, or a more reasonably priced lunch or dinner at 58 Tour Eiffel (lunch is 41.50€, cheaper than a timed ticket from Viator, plus you get something to eat!).  Your 2nd stage lift ticket is included, and they have a special elevator for you to ride -- without a wait!  Reservations fill up the longer you wait, so book 6 weeks or so ahead to get the date you want. 
• Take the stairs!  Even during the busiest times of the year, the line for the stairs shouldn't be longer than 25-30 minutes.  Purchase your stairs ticket (10€ to 2nd floor, or 19€ to take the stairs to 2nd floor then lift to summit) at the South pillar.  The climb to the first floor doesn't take too long -- perhaps 20-30 minutes -- but of course it depends on how energetic you are.  Even if you're a little out of shape, the stairs aren't unmanageable as long as your knees are good.   I took the stairs about a year ago carrying a grandchild part of the way, and saw folks much older than I making the trek without a problem.  You can take your time and step aside if the young 'uns behind you are nipping at your heels.
  

If all else fails, you can always wait in line (boo!).  Buying tickets on site the day of your visit are for immediate use (you can't save them for later in the day), but they never sell out, so don't worry about not getting in as long as you allow enough time before closing.  For the shortest wait, get there about 1/2 an hour before opening, or about 5-6PM when everyone else is thinking about going "home" to clean up for dinner.  

After your descent, head out to the Champ de Mars for another great photo op (the large grassy park adjacent to the ET).  If the weather is nice, you might consider bring snacks or a picnic to enjoy on the grass while you savor the view.  Ignore the vendors selling trinkets or asking you to sign petitions.  The best way to deal with these pesky critters is to not even acknowledge them, just walk right on by.  Don't look at what they're selling, or they will detect your interest and won't leave you alone!  If they get in your face, don't be timid -- tell them NO in no uncertain terms, and turn away.  Don't let them ruin your experience with the Grande Dame of Paris.  

Remember that the tower twinkles in all her gorgeous splendor at the top of each hour for 5 minutes every night, beginning at dark until the last twinkle at 1AM.   

                   

My First-Timer's List

I love chatting about Paris and helping my friends when they're planning trips to my favorite place.  Often, I would spend entire days putting together list after list to help them prepare, personalizing as I went...and then I got smart (what took me so long?) and realized I didn't have to reinvent the wheel each time.  I put together a Word doc with the best of the best -- a sampler of varied sights and experiences that give a good balanced overview of the city for anyone visiting for a few days up to a week --  all the top sights in Paris with tips on the best way to see them, not-to-miss extras that are often overlooked but add so much depth to a quick trip, and helps for navigating, avoiding scams, shopping and finding a good meal.  This post focuses on the sights, and I'll follow up with the miscellaneous bits in another post.  I'll keep these lists brief so they're easier for you to copy, and will expound on various points in future posts.  

My Paris Top 21

(In no particular order)

1.  Eiffel Tower (go to the top! 25€ for adults, youth and children are less). Buy your tickets online (3 months ahead!) so you don’t have to wait in line.  Arrive by metro at the Trocadero stop to ensure that you get the "WOW" postcard view. 

2. *Arc de Triomphe (cross thru the tunnel under the street and buy a ticket to the top—in my opinion, a better view than from the Eiffel) 12€. After visiting the Arc, take a stroll down the Champs Elysées and stop at Laudurée (75 avenue des Champs Elysées) and buy some macarons (my favorite flavors are pistachio and caramel au beurre salé).  

3. Notre Dame—go inside and take a look around (free, enter on the right, the line moves steadily). If you’re there on Sunday, there’s usually a free organ concert at 5:30 pm, and the Gregorian Chant service at 10:00 am is interesting, too. If you can snag timed entry tickets to climb the towers, by all means do so (10€).  Download the Jefile app then log on at 7:30 am the morning you want to climb, select your time, and voila! If you don't have a smartphone, show up at the tower in the morning and use the machine near the left corner of the cathedral to select your return time.  It's worth the climb to see the bells and gargoyles up close. Also nearby is *Sainte-Chapelle (10€)—if it’s a sunny day, the stained glass in the upstairs chapel will be glorious! Afterward, cross the bridge behind Notre Dame, enjoy the street performers on the bridge, and take a walk down the main drag of the Ile St. Louis. Have an ice cream cone at Berthillion (31, Rue St Louis en l'Ile); if the line is too long or they’re closed, many places on the island sell this brand exclusive to Paris, and very good!

4. *Louvre—Closed Tuesday; 15€; Consider going on Wednesday or Friday evening (when they're open till 9:45pm) to avoid the huge crowds that can be in the popular areas during the day. If you mostly want to see “The Big 3” (Mona Lisa, Winged Victory, Venus de Milo) you can follow this route to save time.  If you won’t have time on this visit to see Versailles, then you’ll also want to visit Napoleon’s apartments in the Louvre to get a taste of what Versailles is like (different style and period, but opulent just the same). Take a walk in the beautiful Jardin de Tuilleries when you’re finished in the museum, and if you want a snack, head across the street to Angelina for a cup of their famous thick hot chocolate (226 Rue de Rivoli). If you’re not “museumed out” go to one of my favorite museums, the nearby *Orangerie (9€, closed Tuesday; Monet’s huge water lilies). See the Obelisk at Place du Concorde (on the sidewalk on the Champs Elysées side of the obelisk, you will see the bronze plaque indicating where Marie Antoinette was guillotined).

5. Jardin du Luxembourg—(free) The gardens usually start to bloom in March, and are planted for summer and fall, so it's gorgeous with flowers from March-November, when the beds are dug up for the winter. It’s still a beautiful space even in the winter, tho! If you’re there on a weekend or Wednesday afternoon, you can watch the children sail their boats on the big pond behind the Sénat building. Nearby is the *Pantheon (9€) which is also interesting. Climb the dome for a great view (additional 2€).

6. *Musée d’Orsay—12€ My husband’s favorite museum in Paris. Not as overwhelming as the Louvre. Closed on Monday.

7. Sacre Coeur—(free); After your visit here, head to the right (before going down the stairs) to the Place du Tertre, which is an area frequently shown on TV. Artists, very touristy, but still fun. If you're interested in fabric, check out some of the fabric shops in the area below Sacre Coeur (Saint Pierre is huge and the best one—6 floors of fabric! 2 Rue Charles Nodier). The street at the base of Sacre Coeur also has some of the least expensive Paris trinkets to bring home (rue de Steinkerque).  Watch out for the con-artists playing the shell game in this area, and the "bracelet guys" who try to tie string on your wrist for a price.

8. *Musée Nissim de Camondo—9€ (includes audioguide); 63 rue de Monceau; another of my favorite museums.  This was the home of the Camondo family, a Jewish banker and collector of fine art and furniture. He willed the home and it’s contents to France, and not long after he died, his only surviving child--a daughter, and her family--were transported to Auschwitz. His only son lost his life serving France in WWI as a fighter pilot. Tragic story, but it’s a gorgeous home that gives you a feel for how the wealthy lived at the turn of the century. One of the few old homes like this where you can still see the kitchen. Take a walk thru the nearby Parc Monceau afterward and see the Roman colonnade around the pond on the northeast end.  Rue de Lévis, a nice market street, is not far from the north park entrance.

9. *Musée Rodin & Gardens—10€ (2€ for gardens only) Closed Monday. This is where The Thinker, The Kiss, Gates of Hell, etc. are located. Love this museum!  Recently renovated. If you’re pressed for time, it’s worth just going into the garden, as you can enjoy many famous sculptures.


10. River Cruise—We’ve done several and they’re all about the same. This one gives an online discount coupon, you can understand the English commentary, and is easy to find docked on the left bank of the Seine at Pont Neuf. They leave every 30 minutes or so, last cruise at 9:30 or 10:30 pm, depending on the time of year. Most of the dinner cruises are overpriced and serve industrial food, but one exception we've tried is Le Calife. Dinner & 2 hour cruise starts at 67€

11. *Opera Garnier—(11€ self-guided) Worth a visit to see the opulent interior and grand staircase! It’s fun to wander around inside on your own, or catch an English tour (twice a day, 15.50€ including admission).  While you’re in this area, walk behind the Opera and down Bl. Haussmann to see Galeries Lafayette and Printemps, two of the old “grand magasins” (huge department stores).  Go inside Galeries Lafayette to see the gorgeous stained glass dome above the cosmetics department.  You can also go up to the roof for a great view over Paris (free).  The Fragonard perfume museum (free) is nearby if you want to do something “girlie”.

12. Stroll along the Seine—cross the bridges, enjoy the quais. Pont des Arts is nice at sunset—you can see the Eiffel twinkle from here (5 minutes at the top of each hour after dark until 1 am). 

13. Bakery Tour—I’ve been on several of these and they’re great. You're you’re shown how baguettes and croissants are made, and come away with samples. 23€

14. *Les Invalides & Musée de l’Armée—Military museum and Napoleon’s Tomb (11€) The guys usually love these two.  In the summer, there’s a great light show at night inside the courtyard of Les Invalides that is very well done (20€ at the door, or 18€ if you buy tickets online).

15. Explore a market street—Rue Montorgueil, Rue Mouffetard, Rue de Levis, Rue Daugerre, or Rue des Martyrs, to name a few.  Don’t be afraid to go into a cheese shop, watch the butcher, etc. Buy the iconic dinner of a rotisserie chicken and roasted potatoes cooked underneath in the drippings to eat in a park (or back in your room, if the hotel allows it)!

16. Explore a street market—“My” markets very close to our apartment are Marché Maubert (at Maubert Mutualité metro) on Tues, Thurs & Sat. from 7:30am – 1pm, and Marché Monge (at Place Monge metro) on Wed., Fri. & Sun. also from 7:30am – 1pm.  Larger street markets are held at Bastille (Sun. & Thurs. 7:30 am – 1:30pm); Ave. du Pres. Wilson (Wed. & Sat 7:30 -1:30); Pick out a few things for a picnic or to snack on in your room: Cheese, olives, fruit, tapenades, jams, foie gras, etc! (the Marché Pres. Wilson has an excellent and famous foie gras merchant). The vendors sell produce, flowers, meat & cheese, some prepared foods, salts & spices, as well as inexpensive handbags, scarves, jewelry, hats, linens, clothing, etc. 
  

17. Must try: Crepes from a street stand (try Nutella and banana, citron sucre [lemon sugar] or jambon fromage [ham & cheese]); almond croissants; macarons; raisin snails; croissants; pain au chocolat; tart citron; Berthillion ice cream; Amorino gelato; thick hot chocolate (Angelina’s, Les Deux Magots, Amorino); …hmm, can you tell I’m all about the sweets?!! If you rent an apartment, head to your local grocery to buy some Normandy butter with salt crystals for your morning baguette (Grand Fermage “aux cristaux de Sel de Mer de Noirmoutier” is a great one).    

18. La Grande Épicerie at Bon Marché—this is one of the world’s most amazing grocery stores.  A great place to find unusual gifts to bring home. Fleur de sel and herbes de Provence are appreciated gifts for the cooks in your life and are inexpensive and easy to pack (also available at any grocery store). Also, they carry most of the iconic French brands that are fun to take home—Maille mustards, Fauchon chocolate, etc.  The store has a large take-away section and they will heat items for you to eat at the long communal table there, or at the park next door! While you're here, be sure to do a little browsing at the Bon Marché itself--the worlds first department store.

19. *Versailles—Take RER C toward Versailles and get off at Versailles Rive Gauche (end of the line, 25 minutes).  Buy a round trip train ticket from a machine at one of the train stations that pass thru Paris (included in your pass if you have a Navigo).  The train you board should say VICK or VERO on the front, and the overhead board along the platform should have a light next to the "Versailles Rive Gauche" stop (if not, wait for the next train).  Upon arrival, turn right when you exit the station, then the first left onto Ave. de Paris (Tourist Office is on your left just after you turn onto Avenue de Paris—free maps, and if you haven’t already gotten chateau tickets you can buy them here, shorter line).  After exploring the chateau, be sure to take time to see the charming Hamlet!  See the Trianons if time permits (18€ for Passport ticket for admission to all). There’s a tram you can pay to ride to the outer regions of the grounds. Chateau and Trianons are closed Monday. To save time in line, purchase your tickets online here. To skip the line entirely (the security line alone can be over an hour long), book one of the tours of the King's private apartments (7€ extra) online at the Versailles website, above.  These tours are limited to 25 people and all their guides have a Masters degree in Art History—I think they are so worth it, not only to save all that time standing in line, but to get more out of your “Versailles experience”.

20. St. Denis—the French equivalent of Westminster Abbey. Nearly all the kings and queens of France are buried here. Take metro line 13 direction St-Denis/Université (be careful, as the line splits at La Fourche—make sure you’re not on a train to Asnieres-Gennevilliers; if you are, simply step off at any stop before the split and wait for a train that’s going in the right direction, probably the next one). Get off 1 stop before the end at Basilique de St. Denis (exit the metro and head to the left, then another left at the city square). 8.50€ entrance and 4.50€ for an audioguide that is worth listening to.

21. Shoah Memorial Museum--17 rue Geoffroy l'Asnier (metro Pont Marie) Open 10-6, Closed Sat.  Free.  It's sort of hard to classify this subject as a "favorite", but this Holocaust museum is very well-done and every visit for us has been a very moving experience.  If you’ve seen “Sarah’s Key” (I highly recommend it!), you have seen bits of this museum.

*Included on Paris Museum Pass